Sure, you might want to start using whole grain
flours in all your favorite baked goods—they’re a purer form of the ingredients, we’re told they’re good for us, they have flavor and texture in spades. But we need guidance. Baking is simply more forgiving with refined, consistent, industrial products. Luckily, pastry chef Kim Boyce understands whole grain flours, but also knows what a great cookie tastes like.
In her all-whole wheat chocolate chip cookie
recipe, the grain isn’t there just for health but also for flavor—so much so
that she has you add back in any bigger pieces of grain that get caught in the
sifter. The integrity of the grain is (almost) the whole point.
Makes about 20 cookies
3 cups (360g) whole wheat flour
1½ teaspoons baking
powder
1 teaspoon baking
soda
1½ teaspoons kosher
salt
1 cup (230g) cold unsalted
butter, cut into ½-inch (1.3cm) pieces
1 cup (220g) packed dark brown
sugar
1 cup (200g) granulated
sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla
extract
8 ounces (225g) bittersweet
chocolate, roughly chopped into ¼- and ½-inch (6mm and 1.3cm)
pieces
1 Place two racks in the upper and lower thirds of the
oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment.
Although you can butter the sheets instead, parchment is useful for these
cookies because the large chunks of chocolate can stick to the pan.
2 Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt
into a large bowl, pouring back into the bowl any bits of grain or other
ingredients that may remain in the sifter.
3 Put the butter and brown and white sugars in the bowl
of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. With the mixer on low
speed, mix just until the butter and sugars are blended, about 2 minutes. Use a
spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time,
mixing until each is combined. Mix in the vanilla. Add the flour mixture to the
bowl and blend on low speed until the flour is barely combined, about 30
seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.
4 Add the chocolate all at once to the batter. Mix on
low speed until the chocolate is evenly combined. Use a spatula to scrape down
the sides and bottom of the bowl, then scrape the batter out onto a work
surface, and use your hands to fully incorporate all the ingredients.
5 Scoop mounds of dough about 3 tablespoons in size
onto the baking sheets, leaving 3 inches (7.5cm) between them, or about six to a
sheet.
6 Bake the cookies for 16 to 20 minutes, rotating the
sheets halfway through, until the cookies are evenly dark brown. Transfer the
cookies, still on the parchment paper, to the counter to cool, and repeat with
the remaining dough. These cookies are best eaten warm from the oven or later
that same day. They’ll keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
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