Usually when cooking ribs at home, we’re told to
take it low and slow.
Instead, longtime Gourmet editor Ian Knauer will tell you to cook them fast and reckless—425°F (220°C) reckless. Baby backs are more forgiving than bigger spare ribs, and here they get amply marinated and steamed so they come out surprisingly tender, yet sturdy enough to hold up to flipping on the grill. Go too low and slow and you end up with meat falling to pieces and bones sliding out all over the place.
Instead, longtime Gourmet editor Ian Knauer will tell you to cook them fast and reckless—425°F (220°C) reckless. Baby backs are more forgiving than bigger spare ribs, and here they get amply marinated and steamed so they come out surprisingly tender, yet sturdy enough to hold up to flipping on the grill. Go too low and slow and you end up with meat falling to pieces and bones sliding out all over the place.
And unlike barbecue recipes that call for a long
list of dried spices that come together mysteriously, this one requires only a
handful of rather feisty ingredients—and it’s clear what each one is doing
there. Rosemary and garlic—our friends in so many pork endeavors—are the savory
background; cayenne sharpens the garlic’s sting; balsamic vinegar and brown
sugar bring the sticky, with the sugar leveling out the vinegar’s
sour.
Serves 8
8 large cloves
garlic
4 teaspoons kosher salt (we used
Diamond Crystal brand)
2 tablespoons finely chopped
rosemary
½ cup (110g) plus 2 tablespoons
packed dark brown sugar, divided
1 cup (240ml) plus 2 tablespoons
balsamic vinegar, divided
1 teaspoon cayenne
pepper
1 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
8 pounds (3.6kg) baby back pork
ribs
1 cup (240ml) water plus 2 cups
(475ml) hot water
1 Mince and mash garlic to a paste with 1 teaspoon of
the salt. Stir together with the rosemary, 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar, 2
tablespoons of the vinegar, cayenne, remaining 3 teaspoons salt, and pepper. Rub
evenly all over the ribs and transfer to 2 large roasting pans in a single
layer, meaty side up. Marinate, chilled, for at least 8 hours and up to 24
hours. Alternatively, marinate in a zippered bag or bowl covered with plastic
wrap.
2 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C) with racks in the
upper and lower thirds of the oven.
3 Pour ½ cup (120ml) water into each roasting pan and
tightly cover the pans with foil. Roast the ribs, switching the position of the
pans halfway through, until the meat is very tender, about 1¾ hours. Remove the
pans from the oven and transfer the ribs to a platter.
4 Add 1 cup hot water to each roasting pan and scrape
up the brown bits. Skim off and discard the fat, then transfer the liquid to a
10-inch (25cm) skillet. Add the remaining 1 cup (240ml) vinegar and ½ cup (110g)
brown sugar and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Boil until thick and
syrupy and reduced to about 1 cup (240ml), about 15 minutes.
5 In a charcoal grill, prepare a fire for direct-heat
cooking over medium-hot charcoal. Alternatively, preheat a gas grill to medium
heat. The ribs can also be broiled 3 to 4 inches from heat (instead of grilled)
for about 8 minutes.
6 Brush some of the glaze onto both sides of the racks
of ribs. Grill, turning occasionally, until the ribs are hot and grill marks
appear, about 6 minutes. Brush the ribs with more glaze and serve with the
remaining glaze on the side
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