FROM JUDY RODGERS
No cinnamon, no cloves—this sauce is straight
apple.
It comes from Judy Rodgers’s Zuni Café Cookbook and—as with everything served at her San
Francisco restaurant—it’s smart and simple, balancing the apples only as needed
with small amounts of salt,
sugar, and apple cider vinegar. Not only does this quick oven method free you from stewing and stewing applesauce on the stovetop, but it does the magic that roasting always does. All the sugars concentrate, allowing apples to become the best version of themselves. There’s just a little bit of butter too, sliced into wafers that melt into bronzed apple tops and a rich sauce.
sugar, and apple cider vinegar. Not only does this quick oven method free you from stewing and stewing applesauce on the stovetop, but it does the magic that roasting always does. All the sugars concentrate, allowing apples to become the best version of themselves. There’s just a little bit of butter too, sliced into wafers that melt into bronzed apple tops and a rich sauce.
Makes about 3 cups
(710ml)
3½ to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8kg)
apples (Rodgers recommends crisp eating apples, like Sierra Beauties, Braeburns,
Pippins, Golden Delicious, or Galas)
Pinch of salt
Up to 2 teaspoons sugar, as
needed
About 2 tablespoons unsalted
butter
A splash of apple cider vinegar,
as needed
1 Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
2 Peel, core, and quarter the apples. Toss with a
little salt and, unless they are very sweet, a bit of sugar to taste. If they
are tart enough to make you squint, add the full measure of sugar. Spread in a
shallow baking dish that crowds the apples in a single layer. Drape with slivers
of the butter, cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil, and bake until the
apples start to soften, 15 to 30 minutes, depending on your apples.
3 Uncover, raise the heat to 500°F (260°C), and return
the pan to the oven. Leave the apples to dry out and color slightly, about 10
minutes.
4 When the tips of the apples have become golden and
the fruit is tender, scrape them into a bowl and stir into a chunky “mash.”
Season with salt and sugar to taste, then consider a splash of apple cider
vinegar to brighten the flavor. (Try a drop on a spoonful to see if you like
it.) Serve hot or warm.
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