An eggy custard base has a nasty habit of muting
other flavors in ice cream.The butterfat in cream, on the other hand, will melt and bloom as soon as it hits your tongue—loud and clear, you’re tasting vanilla, or roasted pistachio, or dark chocolate. So Jeni Britton Bauer of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in Columbus, Ohio, developed an eggless formula to put the butterfat in charge, while keeping gritty ice crystals at bay, too—all with the help of readily available baking-aisle staples.
Most of her ice cream recipes start with the same
comforting step, prepping three bowls: a lump of soft cream cheese whisked with
salt; a cornstarch and milk slurry; and an ice bath, with a sturdy Ziploc bag
bobbing in it, waiting to cool down your base fast. This is like food chemistry
lab for preschoolers.
Her sweet corn ice cream with pockets of black raspberry sauce alone is worth the
price of an ice cream maker (which is cheaper than you’d think). But Bauer’s
genius is also in giving you a blueprint so you can go your own way. It can be
as simple as steeping a vanilla bean, or as complicated as you like.
Makes a generous 1 quart
(1L)
BLACK RASPBERRY SAUCE
2 cups (300g) raspberries, black
raspberries, and/or blackberries
1 cup (200g) sugar
SWEET CORN ICE CREAM
1 ear sweet corn,
husked
2 cups (475ml) whole
milk
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
cornstarch
1½ ounces (45g/3 tablespoons)
cream cheese, softened
¼ teaspoon fine sea
salt
1¼ cups (300ml) heavy
cream
⅔ cup (135g) sugar
2 tablespoons light corn
syrup
1 To make the sauce, combine
the berries and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Continue boiling, stirring occasionally, until it reaches 220°F/105°C (5
to 8 minutes). Let cool slightly, then force through a sieve to remove the
seeds. (Or leave a few seeds in there just to prove you made it.) Refrigerate
until cold before using. Makes about 1¼ cups (300ml).
2 To make the ice cream, slice
the kernels from the corn cob, then “milk” the cob by scraping it with the back
of your knife to extract the liquid; reserve the kernels and liquid. Mix about 2
tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to make a smooth
slurry. Whisk the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. Fill a
large bowl with ice and water.
3 Combine the remaining milk, the cream, sugar, corn
and juices, and corn syrup in a 4-quart (3.8L) saucepan, bring to a rolling boil
over medium-high heat, and boil for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and force
the mixture through a sieve into a bowl, keeping the corn “cases” behind. Return
the mixture to the saucepan and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Bring
back to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring with a heatproof
spatula, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.
4 Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream
cheese until smooth. Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon (3.8L) Ziploc freezer bag
and submerge the sealed bag in the ice bath. Let stand, adding more ice as
necessary, until cold, about 30 minutes.
5 Pour the ice cream base into your ice cream maker and
spin until thick and creamy. Pack the ice cream into a storage container,
alternating it with layers of the black raspberry sauce and ending with a
spoonful of sauce; do not mix. Press a sheet of parchment directly against the
surface, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your
freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.
0 التعليقات: