Monday, July 23, 2018

Amanda Hesser & Merrill Stubbs

We’ve cooked thousands of recipes together, and when you cook that much, you begin to develop an eye for the crucial distinctions that make a standout recipe—an exemplar.
These are the recipes that inspire you to change how you make a standard dish, that become the recipes you cook for the rest of your life. Nigella Lawson’s dense chocolate loaf cake was greater than all the other versions we tried because of the logic-defying amount of water you add to the batter—which makes the cake luxuriously moist, and even better the next day.
These special recipes would crop up from time to time, and after a while we could see they belonged in a category all their own: genius recipes.

And we knew just the person to uncover these gems. We hired Kristen as our first team member when Food52.com was a wee upstart, and her extraordinary talents as a writer, editor, and cook quickly became apparent. More recently, as our executive editor, she has shaped our site’s voice and look, recruited other excellent editors, and helped make Food52 a hub for passionate cooks.
In 2011, Kristen debuted her first Genius Recipes post on Food52. It featured the River Café’s strawberry sorbet, into which you blend a whole lemon, skin and all. The column immediately became a hit. With tireless curiosity and sly wit, Kristen has introduced us to some of the best recipes from such cooking luminaries as Marcella Hazan, Eric Ripert, Alice Waters, Nigella Lawson, James Beard, Patricia Wells, Craig Claiborne, Martha Stewart, Fergus Henderson, April Bloomfield, Yotam Ottolenghi, and Julia Child, to name just a few.
She has discovered genius recipes from many lesser-known authors and chefs, as well. For Kristen, no stone goes unturned. She’s an indefatigable researcher and perfectionist who will test and retest recipes not only to make sure they work exactly as written, but to assess whether or not they’re truly genius. She rejected many a recipe that we couldn’t find fault with.
Along the way, Kristen has added her own touches of genius. With a strange but delicious caramelized white chocolate recipe, she discovered that you can use it as an ice cream topping in the vein of Magic Shell. (She also styled the recipes for all of the photos in this book.)
We’ve become avid fans of her column ourselves. After Kristen wrote about Roy Finamore’s broccoli cooked forever, in which you simmer broccoli and garlic in oil for seemingly days, in essence making a confit with them, Merrill made it so often that she began applying the technique to all species of vegetables from carrots to parsnips to cauliflower. Likewise, Amanda will now only make the genius guacamole by Roberto Santibañez from his book Truly Mexican for which you crush white onion, cilantro, and salt to a paste and very gently fold in the avocado so as not to smush it, an approach that produces a guacamole that’s brighter, more aromatic, and somehow more delicate than any other. The recipe’s tiny details have a huge payoff. And that is the brilliant and rewarding principle behind all of the genius recipes in this book


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