Getting a jumpstart on your waffle batter the
night before breakfast isn’t just clever time management, and it isn’t a
questionable shortcut—it will actually get you a better waffle. This one, from
Marion Cunningham, the champion of home cooking who revived the Fannie Farmer
books in the 1970s, is the only overnight waffle recipe you need to know.
In the same way that long-risen breads taste
richer and more of themselves (like Jim Lahey’s classic no-knead
bread), a yeasted waffle batter will taste like what a real waffle ought to
be, and—in case there was any doubt—confirm that mixes from boxes are a
sham.
Stirring together a few ingredients before bed and
adding a couple more in the morning is no more difficult than following the back
of a box—possibly even easier because you’re not trying to tear open a plastic
bag full of powder before coffee.
But time management justifications, however true,
are almost irrelevant. This waffle will be delicate and crisp at the surface and
almost pudding-soft inside, with a yeasty, savory tang that goes down well with
maple.
Makes about 8 waffles
½ cup (120ml) warm
water
1 (¼-ounce/7g) envelope active
dry yeast
2 cups (475ml) milk,
warmed
½ cup (115g) butter,
melted
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups (250g) all-purpose
flour
2 large eggs
¼ teaspoon baking
soda
1 Use a rather large mixing bowl—the batter will rise
to double its original volume. Put the water in the mixing bowl and sprinkle in
the yeast. Let stand to dissolve for 5 minutes.
2 Add the milk, butter, salt, sugar, and flour to the
yeast mixture and beat until smooth and blended (Cunningham often used a hand
rotary beater to get rid of the lumps). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
stand overnight at room temperature.
3 Just before cooking the waffles, beat in the eggs,
add the baking soda, and stir until well mixed. The batter will be very thin.
Pour about ½ to ¾ cup (120 to 180ml) of batter into a very hot waffle iron. Bake
the waffles until they are golden and crisp. This batter will keep well for
several days in the refrigerator.
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