What Mexican chef and cookbook author Roberto Santibañez wants cooks to realize is this: “There is a very
important textural thing to guacamole—we never really mush up the avocado. You
want to feel everything.”
In his recipe, the ingredients are what you’d
expect, but by handling them differently, your standard for great guacamole will
shift. You won’t want to leave chunky bits of onion and chile to stumble on
anymore. Nor will you want to grind the avocado into a creamy, homogenous mass.
Instead, with a mortar and pestle, the side of a big knife, or even a fork,
Santibañez pulverizes chile, onion, cilantro, and salt into a bright green
slurry, then gently folds in cubed avocado. He crushes only enough of the
avocado to warrant its consideration as a dip rather than a salad, but leaves
the rest of the cubes intact—as he says, “a bit like salad properly dressed in
vinaigrette.”
More chopped cilantro and (optional) lime juice
finish it off, and you have a dip that ignites as it first hits your tongue,
then cools as you break through each lump of clean, creamy avocado.
Makes about 1¾ cups
(415ml)
2 tablespoons finely chopped
white onion
1 tablespoon minced fresh serrano
or jalapeño chile, including seeds, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon kosher salt, or ¼
teaspoon fine salt
¼ cup (5g) chopped cilantro,
divided
1 large or 2 small ripe Mexican
Hass avocados, halved and pitted
A squeeze of lime, if
desired
1 Mash the onion, chile, salt (the coarseness of kosher
salt helps you make the paste), and half of the cilantro to a paste in a molcajete or other mortar. You can also mince and mash the
ingredients together on a cutting board with a large knife or a fork, and then
transfer the paste to a bowl.
2 Score the flesh in the avocado halves in a crosshatch
pattern (not through the skin) with a knife and then scoop it with a spoon into
the mortar or bowl. Toss well, then add the rest of the cilantro and mash
coarsely with a pestle or a fork. Season to taste with lime juice and additional
chile and salt. Serve immediately
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