Monday, July 23, 2018

Salt-Crusted Potatoes with Cilantro Mojo

This appetizer from José Pizarro, Spanish cookbook author and restaurateur
, will kick off a party with heart-thumping flavors, invite ice-breaking questions (are those fossils? how do I eat them?), and break down any notions of proper etiquette (spoiler: Everyone’s fingers are going to get salty).
You’re essentially just boiling potatoes. But you do it in a wide, shallow pan, in a single layer, without a lid. And with a lot of sea salt. The water bubbles away, and in 20 minutes, the potatoes have sort of steam-boiled tender. A dusty layer of salt covers the potatoes like ash. The outsides look fiercely salty, but the middles are creamy and gently seasoned, so an initial slap of salt and pop of taut skin quickly gives way to buttery flesh. The kicker is a cuminy, garlicky cilantro mojo—a green sauce you bang out in a mortar and pestle or mini food processor, perfect for dragging your crusty potatoes across.
Altogether it’s so good you won’t want to wait for your next dinner party to make it again. And that’s okay—it makes a great any-night side, too. Just grill a steak or chop or butterflied chicken to go with it, and the mojo will get even more play.
Serves 6

SALT-CRUSTED POTATOES

2¼ pounds (1kg) evenly sized waxy new potatoes, such as fingerling, scrubbed but unpeeled

CILANTRO MOJO

3 large cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 green chile, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon sea salt flakes
Leaves from a bunch of fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds
Scant ½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar, muscatel if possible
1 To make the potatoes, put the potatoes in a wide, shallow pan in which they fit in a single layer. Add 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 quart (1L) of cold water (just enough to cover), bring to a boil, and leave to boil rapidly until the water has evaporated. Test one of the larger potatoes for tenderness with the tip of a paring knife. If there’s still some resistance, add more water and continue boiling. Once the potatoes are tender and the water has evaporated, turn the heat to low and continue to cook for a few minutes, gently turning the potatoes over occasionally, until they are dry and the skins are wrinkled and covered in a thin crust of salt.
2 Meanwhile, make the cilantro mojo. Put the garlic, chile, and salt in a mortar and pound into a paste. Add the cilantro and pound until the leaves are incorporated into the paste. Add the cumin and gradually mix in the oil to make a smooth sauce. Just before serving, stir in the vinegar and spoon into a small bowl.
3 Pile the hot potatoes onto a plate and serve with the mojo, instructing your guests to rub off as much salt from the potatoes as they wish before dipping them in the sauce.

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