Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Ship’s Biscuit

You might not think there’d be ways to improve upon the egg sandwich—fry an egg, melt some cheese on toast, maybe get a
little bacon involved.

Crushed together with the yolk as condiment, this is breakfast, sure, but it’s also lunch, dinner, or a midnight snack. And for many of us, this happens a lot, so a new egg sandwich is a boon. This one, from Brooklyn sandwich shop Saltie, takes a novel egg-cooking technique—a hybrid of fried and scrambled—and adds very little.
The soft scrambled eggs are really clotted whites, suspended in a barely thickened yolk—something like if you were to slash an over-easy egg to bits. They’re served on a piece of split focaccia with ricotta, which acts as both a subtle variation in curdy texture and insulation for the bottom layer of bread. Eating it is a messy operation—but it doesn’t last long.
Makes 1 sandwich
1 sandwich-size piece of focaccia
About 2 tablespoons fresh ricotta
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
2 large eggs
Sea salt
1 Cut the focaccia in half horizontally and put the bottom half on a plate, cut side up. Spread the ricotta in an even and generous layer on the cut side. Set aside.
2 To soft scramble the eggs, melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Break the eggs into the pan when it is warm but not yet hot. Sprinkle the eggs lightly with salt.
3 Let the pan heat up, and don’t move the eggs until the whites begin to set. Using a rubber spatula, move the whites around the pan to help cook through, while keeping the yolk unbroken. When the whites fluff up and are almost completely set, remove from the heat and fold the yolks into the white. The residual heat should cook the whites through and leave the yolks soft. This is kind of like scrambling an over-easy egg. To emphasize: Be careful not to overcook the eggs. Err on the side of runny rather than dry.
4 Spoon the eggs on top of the ricotta. Replace the top of the bread and serve right away.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

ADAPTED FROM GABRIELLE HAMILTON
The secret to crispier, faster, better grilled cheese sandwiches is in slathering the outsides of the bread not with butter, but mayonnaise, like Gabrielle Hamilton, author and chef-owner of Prune. Mayo is slower to burn, which—just like that—solves the biggest challenge of grilled cheese: how to get the insides to heat through before the outside blackens. The oil and egg in mayonnaise also brown and crisp more evenly than butter, creating a glossy crunch from edge to edge.

If you’re making a lot of sandwiches, heat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Make as many sandwiches as you like, smearing mayonnaise (Hamilton uses Hellmann’s) generously on one side of ½-inch (1.3cm) thick slices of rustic bread. Form sandwiches, mayo-side out, the middles stuffed with shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese. Heat a large, preferably nonstick frying pan or griddle over medium-low heat until hot, about 4 to 5 minutes. Place 2 to 3 of the sandwiches in the pan and cook until the bottoms are golden brown and the cheese is starting to melt, about 5 minutes. Flip the sandwiches and cook until the second sides are golden brown and the cheese is completely melted, about 5 minutes more. If you need to hold the sandwiches or make more, transfer them to a baking sheet and place them in the oven to keep warm. Let them cool a minute to two before cutting each sandwich in half. Serve with spicy tomato soup.
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