You may think there’s a finite number of ways—say,
six—to
cook eggs. Sure, over time we’ve learned to improve upon the
fundamentals, by frying eggs in olive oil or hard-cooking them judiciously
rather than boiling their yolks out (see the deviled eggs). But rarely
has an entirely new technique been invented, especially one that doesn’t take 40
minutes.
The technique, a hybrid of poaching and
scrambling, first came to San Francisco chef and writer Daniel Patterson out of
necessity. His fiance (now wife) made him throw away the Teflon pan he relied
upon for scrambling, and he had to get resourceful. He plunged beaten eggs in
simmering water and—instead of a potful of loose bits—came up with scrambled
eggs. Fluffy, near-instant scrambled eggs.
Adding to their mystique, these scrambled eggs are
also made without any fat, yet there’s no crusty pan to clean. And, though the
recipe is written to serve two, the technique is friendly to scaling and
riffing.
In the manner of the 6-minute egg and its
variants, it’s not such a stretch to call these 40-second eggs, because other
than waiting for your water to boil, that’s all the time they take. You barely
have time to make toast!
Serves 2
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil (optional)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 Crack each egg into a medium-mesh sieve (or
narrow-slotted spoon), letting the thinner white drain away. Transfer the
remaining yolk and white to a small bowl. (If your eggs are very fresh, you can
skip this step.) Beat the eggs vigorously with a fork or whisk for 20
seconds.
2 Set a saucepan filled with about 4 inches (10cm) of
water over medium heat. Put a strainer in the sink. When the water is at a low
boil, add a few large pinches of salt (if you want the eggs to be well salted,
the water should taste like the sea), then stir in a clockwise direction to
create a whirlpool. Pour the eggs into the moving water, cover the pot, and
count to 20.
3 Turn off the heat and uncover the pot. The eggs
should be floating on the surface in ribbons. While holding back the eggs with a
spoon, pour off most of the water over the strainer. Gently slide the eggs into
the strainer and press them lightly to expel any excess liquid. Tilt the
strainer from side to side to release any trapped water (you can even drain the
eggs on paper towels, if you like).
4 Scoop the eggs into bowls, drizzle with olive oil,
and season with salt and pepper
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