When we think of a sandwich ransacked from the
fridge, it’s usually eggs, or grilled cheese, or something salumi-based. But
with only a little more effort you can get something more restorative out of a
desperate kitchen sweep.
Next time, make a hearty vegetarian panini (no
panini press needed), like Chapel Hill-based chef Andrea Reusing does, inspired
by the sandwiches served by her friend Billy Cotter at his
restaurant Toast. This is a clever way to jam a ton of greens into a sandwich
and keep them interesting (they’re dressed in the most basic of vinaigrettes and
flanked by cheese and spicy pickled peppers).
As long as you have random greens, cheese, bread,
and jars of pickles (or olives or capers), the recipe here can be used as a
template for many fast, sturdy meals—much better ones than you thought you’d get
when you wandered over to the fridge.
Serves 4
PICKLED PEPPERS
4 cups (950ml) loosely packed
hot, semi-hot, or sweet fresh chile peppers, with seeds
3 tablespoons kosher
salt
¼ cup (50g) sugar
4 cups (950ml) distilled white
vinegar
PANINI
2 big bunches curly kale (about 1
pound/450g total), stemmed, leaves torn into pieces
1½ tablespoons kosher salt, plus
more for salting the water
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more
for grilling
1 tablespoon red wine
vinegar
8 slices rustic sandwich
bread
10 ounces (280g) farmer’s cheese
or other crumbly fresh cheese such as queso blanco or feta, broken into
chunks
Freshly ground black
pepper
1 To make the pickled peppers,
if your chiles are large, cut them into chunks or rounds. If they are small,
simply split them in half lengthwise. Put the peppers in one or more jars with
tight-fitting lids. In a bowl, dissolve the salt and sugar in the vinegar. Pour
this over the peppers, close the jar, and refrigerate for at least 1 day before
using. Makes about 2 cups (475ml); extras keep indefinitely.
2 To make the panini, working
in batches, blanch the kale in boiling salted water for 3 minutes, until tender.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer each batch to a colander. When all the kale is
cooked, let it cool and then squeeze with your hands to remove the excess
moisture. Cut the kale into ½-inch (1.3cm) wide strips and put them in a
bowl.
3 Preheat a panini press if you have one, or heat a
large cast-iron skillet over low heat and have another pan of the same size
ready to weigh down the sandwiches.
4 Right before you are ready to assemble the
sandwiches, season the kale with salt. Add the oil and toss well. Finish with
the vinegar. Lay out four slices of bread and top them with equal parts kale and
cheese; add chiles to taste. Season with salt and pepper and top with the other
slices of bread.
5 Lightly oil the panini press and follow the
manufacturer’s instructions for grilling the sandwiches. If you are using a pan
on the stovetop, raise the heat to medium, lightly oil the pan, and add as many
sandwiches as can comfortably fit. Place the other heavy pan on top to press the
sandwiches; if the pan is relatively light, add some weight to it, such as a
large can or a full tea kettle. Rotating the pan on the burner frequently, cook
the sandwiches for about 5 minutes, until deep golden brown. Transfer the
sandwiches to a plate, re-oil the pan, and return the sandwiches to the pan,
browned side up, to cook the other side, about 3 minutes. Serve
immediately.
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