While this gratin gives off the airs
of a rich dish, it has no cream or butter and its luxurious base is largely
vegetable water.
And it’s not because Julia Child was afraid of butter—it’s just good that way. When you shred, salt, and squeeze a heap of zucchini dry, it sheds its water weight, leaving a tamed pile that won’t flood your casserole, plus a lot of green, lightly salted liquid. Don’t discard this.
And it’s not because Julia Child was afraid of butter—it’s just good that way. When you shred, salt, and squeeze a heap of zucchini dry, it sheds its water weight, leaving a tamed pile that won’t flood your casserole, plus a lot of green, lightly salted liquid. Don’t discard this.
This is one of those thoughtful, self-perpetuating
recipes that could be designed into a very elegant flow chart. The zucchini
juice that you squeeze out will form the base of a light béchamel, topped off
with a little milk. Then you add just enough parcooked rice to the gratin to
soak up whatever juices remain and thicken the sauce, without asserting itself
as empty filler.
Up to this point, you can cook ahead,
refrigerating overnight even. Then, whenever you’re ready for dinner, sprinkle
on a bit of sharp Parmesan and bake until it’s freckled and golden.
Serves 6
2 to 2½ pounds (900g to 1.1kg)
zucchini or other summer squash
½ cup (90g) white
rice
1 cup (160g) minced
onions
5 to 6 tablespoons olive
oil
2 large cloves garlic, mashed or
finely minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose
flour
About 2½ cups (590ml) warm liquid
(zucchini juices plus milk), heated
About ⅔ cups (65g) grated
Parmesan cheese (save 2 tablespoons for later)
Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1 Shred the zucchini and drain, reserving the juices,
as
described. Meanwhile, drop the rice into boiling salted water, bring rapidly
back to a boil, and boil for exactly 5 minutes; drain and set aside.
2 In a large (11-inch/28cm) frying pan, cook the onions
slowly in 3 to 4 tablespoons oil for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender and
translucent. Raise the heat slightly and stir for several minutes until very
lightly browned. Stir in the grated and dried zucchini and garlic. Toss and turn
for 5 to 6 minutes until the zucchini is almost tender. Sprinkle in the flour,
stir over moderate heat for 2 minutes, and remove from the heat.
3 Gradually stir in the 2½ cups (590ml) of warm liquid
(zucchini juices plus milk, heated gently in a pan; don’t let it get so hot that
the milk curdles). Make sure the flour is well blended and smooth. Put the pan
over moderately high heat and bring to the simmer, stirring. Remove from the
heat again, stir in the blanched rice and all but 2 tablespoons of the cheese.
Taste very carefully for seasoning. Turn into a heavily buttered 6- to 8-cup
(1.4 to 1.9L), flameproof baking and serving dish about 1½ inches
(4cm) deep. Strew the remaining cheese on top and dribble the remaining 2
tablespoons olive oil over the cheese.
4 About half an hour before serving, preheat the oven
to 425°F (220°C).
0 التعليقات: