Cookbook author Dorie Greenspan built this
recipe—an apple cake that’s more apples than cake—from the memory of one served
by her friend Marie-Hélène, the frustrating sort of excellent cook who doesn’t
measure or slow down enough to record her own recipes.
Greenspan is emphatic that you choose four
different kinds of apple, since they each behave differently when baked. Some
sweeten and collapse; some stay structural and tart. They do all the work of
making the cake interesting, without a crumble, or nuts, or even cinnamon. This
also means that the cake stands to come out a little bit different every time.
If that makes you nervous, you could make a note of the apple varieties that
work best for you, but know that apples cobbled together with gently boozed up,
custardy cake are going to be well received, no matter what. Serve the cake
alone, or with soft whipped cream. Greenspan says, “Marie-Hélène served her cake
with cinnamon ice cream and it was a terrific combination.”
Serves 8
¾ cup (95g) all-purpose
flour
¾ teaspoon baking
powder
Pinch of salt
4 large apples (if you can,
choose four different kinds)
2 large eggs
¾ cup (150g) sugar
3 tablespoons dark
rum
½ teaspoon pure vanilla
extract
½ cup (115g) unsalted butter,
melted and cooled
1 Center a rack in the oven, and preheat the oven to
350°F (175°C). Generously butter an 8-inch (20cm) springform pan and put it on a
baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
2 Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together in
small bowl.
3 Peel the apples, cut them in halves and remove the
cores. Cut into 1- to 2-inch (2.5 to 5cm) chunks.
4 In a bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until they’re
foamy. Pour in the sugar and whisk for a minute or so to blend. Whisk in the rum
and vanilla. Whisk in half the flour mixture and when it is incorporated, add
half the melted butter, followed by the rest of the flour mixture and the
remaining butter, mixing gently after each addition so that you have a smooth,
rather thick batter. Switch to a rubber spatula and fold in the apples, turning
the fruit so that it’s coated with batter. Scrape the mix into the pan and poke
it around a little with the spatula so that it’s evenish.
5 Slide the pan into the oven and bake for 50 to 60
minutes, until the top of the cake is golden brown and a knife inserted deep
into the center comes out clean; the cake may pull away from the sides of the
pan. Transfer to a cooling rack and let rest for 5 minutes.
6 Carefully run a blunt knife around the edges of the
cake and remove the sides of the springform pan. (Open the springform slowly,
and before it’s fully opened, make sure there aren’t any apples stuck to it.)
Allow the cake to cool until it is just slightly warm or at room temperature. If
you want to remove the cake from the bottom of the springform pan, wait until
the cake is almost cooled, then run a long spatula between the cake and the pan,
cover the top of the cake with a piece of parchment or waxed paper, and invert
it onto a rack. Carefully remove the bottom of the pan and turn the cake over
onto a serving dish.
7 The cake can be served warm or at room temperature,
and will keep for about 2 days at room temperature. Greenspan’s husband says it
gets more comforting with each passing day. However long you keep the cake, it’s
best not to cover it—it’s too moist. Leave the cake on its plate and just press
a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper against the cut surfaces.
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