This technique from Argentine grilling master
Francis Mallmann takes a very plain ingredient and glitzes it up, making starchy
russet potatoes act like creamy Yukon Golds.It’s not really about ingredients, and much more about shapes. The potatoes are squared off, sliced thinly, and fanned flat, before roasting crisp with Nach Waxman’s beef brisket—makes every piece more like an end piece. The potatoes’ natural starch fuses them together across the middle, while every edge gets brown and crisp.
Mallmann calls for the butter to be chilled so you
can peel off little curls and smear them around. If you’re in a hurry, you could
instead just brush it on in melted form, but I like the effect of the
slow-melting cold butter.
Serves 2 to 4
½ cup (115g) unsalted
butter
4 Idaho or russet
potatoes
Coarse salt
1 To make the clarified butter, slowly melt the butter
in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat; do not stir. Remove from the
heat and carefully spoon off and discard any foam from the top. Pour the clear
liquid butter through a fine-mesh strainer, leaving behind the solids in the
pan. Once cool, chill in the refrigerator. The clarified butter can be
refrigerated for weeks.
2 To make the dominoes, preheat the oven to 400°F
(200°C) with a rack in the center of the oven. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a
silicone mat or use a nonstick baking sheet.
3 Cut off the two ends of one potato and reserve them.
Trim the four sides of the potato to form an even brick. Slice the potato about
⅛ inch (3mm) thick on a mandoline, keeping the slices in order if you can (just
like a line of shingled dominoes). Hold the stack of potato slices in the palm
of one hand and use the other to shape them back into a brick, as you would a
deck of cards. Lay the stack on its side on the baking sheet, and put the
reserved potato ends, cut side down, at either end to keep the stack aligned.
Then, with the palm of your hand, angle the slices slightly to resemble a line
of dominoes that has tilted over. Adjust the end pieces to keep the stack in
shape, and align the slices if necessary. Dot the top and sides with 1
tablespoon of the clarified butter. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Repeat with the
remaining potatoes, keeping the stacks at least 2 inches (5cm) apart.
4 Bake for 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are
browned on the edges and tender in the middle when tested with a skewer. Serve
immediately.
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