Deb Perelman, author of the popular blog Smitten Kitchen and a former vegetarian who was looking for
celebratory meatless mains, designed this recipe based on Julia
Child’s classic boeuf bourguignon, a favorite dish of her mother’s.
There’s a fair amount of chopping and slicing up
front, but by the time you start cooking, you’re nearly done. In only 30 minutes
of simmer time, you get a warming and complex stew, thanks to some stand-up red
wine, a few aromatics, and umami (mushrooms are loaded with it). To make the
sauce richly concentrated, thick, and glossy, you don’t need to simmer all day,
just swirl in a little butter and flour paste (a.k.a. beurre manié) in the last 10 minutes.
In another nontraditional but brilliant move,
Perelman serves this with a spoonful of sour cream, a nod to another beefy
classic: stroganoff—especially if you serve it over egg noodles, though polenta is
just as good.
Serves 4
2 tablespoons olive
oil
2 tablespoons butter,
softened
2 pounds (900g) portobello or
cremini mushrooms, sliced ¼-inch (6mm) thick
1 cup (130g) pearl onions (thawed
if frozen)
½ carrot, finely
diced
1 small yellow onion, finely
diced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
leaves
Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
2 cloves garlic,
minced
1 cup (240ml) full-bodied red
wine
2 tablespoons tomato
paste
2 cups (475ml) beef or vegetable
broth (beef broth is traditional, but use vegetable to make it vegetarian; the
dish works with either)
1½ tablespoons all-purpose
flour
Egg noodles, for serving (buttered
potatoes or farro or polenta work well, too)
Sour cream and chopped fresh
chives or parsley, for garnish (optional)
1 Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon
of the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy saucepan over high heat. Sear the
mushrooms and pearl onions until they begin to take on a little color, but the
mushrooms do not yet release any liquid, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove them from the
pan and set aside. Lower the flame to medium and add the second tablespoon of
olive oil. Toss the carrot, diced onion, thyme, a few good pinches of salt, and
several grinds of black pepper into the pan and cook for 10 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for
just 1 more minute.
3 Thoroughly combine the remaining 1 tablespoon of
butter and the flour with a fork; stir it into the stew. Lower the heat and
simmer for 10 more minutes. If the sauce is too thin, boil it down to reduce to
the right consistency. Season to taste.
4 To serve, spoon the stew over a bowl of egg noodles
(or buttered potatoes, farro, or polenta), dollop with sour cream, and sprinkle
with chives or parsley.
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