Dry-Brined Turkey (a.k.a. The Judy Bird)

In 2006, the Los Angeles Times’s food section held a turkey taste test that changed the way we cook for Thanksgiving.
The winning bird had been dry-brined (though the term “dry-brining” wasn’t being tossed around yet). In less fancy words, a few tablespoons of salt had been sprinkled on it a few days ahead.

Food editor Russ Parsons had Zuni Café’s Judy Rodgers to thank for the salting technique, so—although she never liked turkey much herself—he named this one after her. The Judy Bird was born. As Rodgers taught him, salting early doesn’t dry food out—if timed and measured right, it pulls moisture out and back in again, and the process magically realigns the proteins so that they’ll hold on tighter next time. What this means to your mouth is juicy, tender food—and a turkey that’s much less likely to overcook and dry out. As a bonus, it’s salted all the way to its middle, not just on the surface. And, unlike with wet brines, you don’t need to find room in your fridge for a turkey-sized vat of liquid.

Parsons wrote about the salting technique for the next five years in a row, testing new variations each year and slashing steps he decided weren’t important. By his count, he’s received more than a thousand emails from happy cooks.

Serves 11 to 15

One 12- to 16-pound (5.4 to 7.3kg) turkey (frozen is fine)

Kosher salt (we used Diamond Crystal brand)

Herbs and/or spices to flavor the salt, such as smoked paprika and orange zest, bay leaf and thyme, or rosemary and lemon zest (optional)

Melted butter, for basting (optional)

1 Rinse the turkey inside and out, pat it dry and weigh it. Measure 1 tablespoon of salt into a bowl for every 5 pounds (2.3kg) the turkey weighs (for a 15-pound/6.8kg turkey, use 3 tablespoons). Flavor the salt with herbs and spices if you like. Grind them together in a spice grinder, small food processor, or mortar and pestle.

2 Sprinkle the inside of the turkey lightly with the salt. Place the turkey on its back and salt the breasts, concentrating the salt in the center, where the meat is thickest. You’ll probably use a little more than a tablespoon. It should look liberally seasoned, but not oversalted. Turn the turkey on one side and sprinkle the entire side with salt, concentrating on the thigh. You should use a little less than a tablespoon. Flip the turkey over and do the same with the opposite side. Place the turkey in a 2½-gallon (9.5L) sealable plastic bag, press out the air, and seal tightly. (If you can’t find a resealable bag this big, you can use a turkey oven bag, but be prepared for it to leak.) Place the turkey breast-side up in the refrigerator. Chill for 3 days, turning it onto its breast for the last day. Rub the salt around once a day if you remember. Liquid will collect in the bag—this is normal.

3 Remove the turkey from the bag. There should be no salt visible on the surface, and the skin should be moist but not wet. Place the turkey breast-side up on a plate and refrigerate uncovered for at least 8 hours.

4 On the day it is to be cooked, remove the turkey from the refrigerator and leave it at room temperature for at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

5 Pat the turkey dry one last time and baste with melted butter, if using. Place the turkey breast-side down on a roasting rack in a roasting pan; put it in the oven. After 30 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and carefully turn the turkey over so the breast is facing up (it’s easiest to do this by hand, using kitchen towels or oven mitts).

6 Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C), return the turkey to the oven, and roast until a thermometer inserted in the deepest part of the thigh, but not touching the bone, reads 165°F (75°C), about 2¾ hours total roasting.

7 Remove the turkey from the oven, transfer it to a warm platter or carving board, and tent loosely with foil. Let stand for at least 30 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute through the meat. Carve and serve.

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