We’re taught to zest our lemons carefully, to shear
off just the thin yellow top coat that holds the citrusy perfume—as if some of
the bitter, spongy white pith might sneak in and ruin everything. (And sometimes
it does.)
But Ruth Rogers and Rose
Gray, founders of the famed River Café in London, realized that,
taken in the right proportions, some pith would add depth but not bitterness to
a sweet dessert. So they told us to pulverize a whole chopped lemon, pith and
all, and make strawberry sorbet out of it.
The process is enough to convince anyone, young or
old, that the kitchen is an exciting place to be. Just three ingredients make a
series of quick, colorful transformations, all in one food processor bowl. You
get to see not only what strawberries look like as they surrender and slacken
into a hot-pink soup, but also what happens when chopped lemon and sugar become
one—going from sand to slush in just a few pulses. And because this effortlessly
dissolves the sugar, you get to bypass making a simple syrup, a
step often considered mandatory in sorbet recipes. In other words, this is a
truly no-cook sorbet.
It’s sweet and cold, with little pucker, and since
you don’t strain it, you get gleeful pops of strawberry seed and shreds of lemon
rind (of course, you could always pass it through a strainer if textured sorbet
isn’t your thing, but for the true, rustic Rogers-and-Gray experience,
don’t).
Serve it as an invigorating dessert after something
grilled and meaty. Or ease a scoop into a glass of seltzer or ginger ale and go
sit in the sunshine.
Makes 1½ quarts (1.4L)
2 to 3 lemons, one seeded and
roughly chopped, the others juiced
2 cups (400g) sugar
2 pounds (900g) strawberries,
hulled
1 Place the lemon pieces into a food processor with the
sugar, and pulse until combined. Pour into a bowl.
2 Puree the strawberries in a food processor and add to
the lemon mixture, along with the juice of 1 lemon. Taste and add more juice as
necessary. The flavor of the lemon should be intense but should not overpower
the strawberries. Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn until
frozen. Serve immediately or transfer to a lidded container in the freezer until
serving.
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