Anya von Bremzen’s potato soup from The New Spanish Table is sharper than your average chowder
or vichyssoise because its substance doesn’t come from cream or flour, but
rather from almonds, toasted in garlicky olive oil and ground.
About half the potatoes melt into the broth, the rest are left in ragged chunks. A bit of diced Serrano ham (or prosciutto) and a pinch of saffron go a long way, adding a luxurious gloss to what is otherwise a peasant stew.
About half the potatoes melt into the broth, the rest are left in ragged chunks. A bit of diced Serrano ham (or prosciutto) and a pinch of saffron go a long way, adding a luxurious gloss to what is otherwise a peasant stew.
If this sounds too rich and savory, remember that
you’ll have held back a handful of ground almonds and splashed them with some
sherry vinegar just before serving, making a soup that’s cozy but bright in
every spoonful.
Those almond bits that have been simmering with
the soup for the duration are softened and plumped; the last-minute ones a
still-crunchy carrier for the vinegar. The potatoes, like butter. If you wanted
an unobstructed, smooth soup, this isn’t it.
Serves 4 as an
appetizer
1½ pounds (680g) Yukon Gold
potatoes
¼ cup (60ml) extra-virgin olive
oil
½ cup (75g) whole blanched
almonds
6 large cloves garlic,
peeled
⅓ cup (about 2 ounces/55g) finely
diced Serrano ham or prosciutto
4 cups (950ml) chicken stock, or more
if needed
Coarse salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Pinch of saffron,
crushed
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar,
preferably aged, or more to taste
2 tablespoons minced fresh
flat-leaf parsley
Dense country bread, for
serving
1 Cut the potatoes into irregular chunks by inserting
the tip of a small, sharp knife into a potato and twisting until a 1½-inch (4cm)
chunk comes out. Repeat until the entire potato is cut up, then continue with
the remaining potatoes; set aside. Alternatively, coarsely chop the potatoes
into 1½-inch (4cm) chunks. Peeling is optional.
2 Heat the oil in a heavy 3-quart (2.8L) saucepan over
medium heat. Add the almonds and garlic and cook, stirring, until golden, 4 to 5
minutes, adjusting the heat so the oil doesn’t burn. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer the almonds and garlic to a bowl to cool slightly. Add the ham to the
pan and stir for 1 minute. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring, for another
minute. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that
rises to the surface. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer the soup.
3 Meanwhile, place the almond and garlic mixture in a
food processor and grind it. If you like almond bits in your soup, grind the
mixture somewhat coarsely; otherwise, grind it finely. Add all but about 2
tablespoons to the soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4 Steep the saffron in a few tablespoons of the soup
broth for 2 minutes, then add it to the soup. Simmer the soup, partially
covered, until about half the potatoes have disintegrated, about 35 minutes.
Skim the soup as it cooks if you like, and add a little more stock if the soup
seems too thick.
5 When you are ready to serve, check the texture of the
soup. If you’d like it creamier, break up some of the potatoes with a sturdy
spoon. Add the vinegar to the reserved ground almond mixture and stir it into
the soup. Add the parsley and cook for a minute. Taste for seasoning, adding a
little more vinegar, if needed. Serve the soup with bread
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