Monday, July 23, 2018

Breakfast

Fried Eggs with Wine Vinegar

FROM ROGER VERGÉ


Egg yolk needs something to play against—a spicy sauce to snake through, a buttered piece of toast, crisp potatoes, salty meats. Here’s another, a simpler and perhaps better mate for egg yolk than any of these: vinegar. It might not

sound as welcome at 9 a.m. as butter or maple—and I know people are stubborn about their fried eggs—but a measured shot of vinegar is surprisingly perfect at breakfast. Just think about hot sauce: We don’t reach for it because it’s like ketchup, but rather because it’s like vinegar.
Roger Vergé, one of the forefathers of nouvelle cuisine, knows this. The richness of yolk is tempered best by sitting next to something tart and cleansing—the balance of soft and sharp acting like a good vinaigrette.

While Vergé is quite specific about his eggs, his technique can be applied to your favorite fried egg method, whatever it may be. Just splash a couple tablespoons of vinegar into the hot, still-buttery pan as soon as the eggs come out. Let it reduce by half, then spill the resulting syrup over your eggs. As you bite in, the brightness will startle you, then feel strangely familiar and comforting. If you need to ease in, you could swirl in some butter at the end with the vinegar, much like mounting a proper pan sauce. But you’ll see it’s not necessary once the yolk is unleashed.

1 Break 2 or 3 eggs, according to your appetite, into a bowl, taking care not to break the yolks. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a 6-inch (15cm) frying pan, preferably nonstick, and when it turns golden, slip in the eggs very carefully. Cook, puncturing any air bubbles that form in the egg whites with a fork. Don’t worry if the eggs go crisp and golden round the edge. When they are cooked the way you like them, season with salt and freshly ground pepper and slide onto a heated plate.
2 Pour 2 tablespoons of the vinegar into the pan. Allow to reduce by half and pour over the eggs.
3 Wipe out the pan with a cloth or paper towel and repeat the process with the remaining eggs, butter, and vinegar


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