Fried Eggs with Wine Vinegar
Egg yolk needs something to play against—a spicy
sauce to snake through, a buttered piece of toast, crisp potatoes, salty meats.
Here’s another, a simpler and perhaps better mate for egg yolk than any of
these: vinegar. It might not
sound as welcome at 9 a.m. as butter or maple—and I
know people are stubborn about their fried eggs—but a measured shot of vinegar
is surprisingly perfect at breakfast. Just think about hot sauce: We don’t reach
for it because it’s like ketchup, but rather because it’s like vinegar.
While Vergé is quite specific about his eggs, his
technique can be applied to your favorite fried egg method, whatever it may be.
Just splash a couple tablespoons of vinegar into the hot, still-buttery pan as
soon as the eggs come out. Let it reduce by half, then spill the resulting syrup
over your eggs. As you bite in, the brightness will startle you, then feel
strangely familiar and comforting. If you need to ease in, you could swirl in
some butter at the end with the vinegar, much like mounting a proper pan sauce.
But you’ll see it’s not necessary once the yolk is unleashed.
1 Break 2 or 3 eggs, according to your appetite, into a
bowl, taking care not to break the yolks. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a
6-inch (15cm) frying pan, preferably nonstick, and when it turns golden, slip in
the eggs very carefully. Cook, puncturing any air bubbles that form in the egg
whites with a fork. Don’t worry if the eggs go crisp and golden round the edge.
When they are cooked the way you like them, season with salt and freshly ground
pepper and slide onto a heated plate.
2 Pour 2 tablespoons of the vinegar into the pan. Allow
to reduce by half and pour over the eggs.
3 Wipe out the pan with a cloth or paper towel and
repeat the process with the remaining eggs, butter, and vinegar
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