Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Orange & Almond CakeOrange & Almond Cake

When you see that you have to boil oranges for 2 hours to make this recipe from Middle Eastern cookbook author Claudia Roden, you may be tempted to thumb to another cake, but I implore you to stay put.

Eggless Lemon Curd

The beauty of pastry chef Elizabeth Falkner’s lemon curd is that, by taking eggs out of the picture, the curd is more forgiving and stable and can be served at any temperature—even warm—without risk of curdling.

Brown Butter Tart Crust

Sometimes it’s nice to take it easy with our pastry, skip a few of the more traditionally grueling steps, and still end up with a tart.

Caramelized White Chocolate


Past the pale, sweet exterior of white chocolate lie three ingredients with a lot of potential—sugar, milk, and fat (in the form of cocoa butter).

Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sure, you might want to start using whole grain flours in all your favorite baked goods—they’re a purer form of the ingredients,

Fresh Ginger Cake

Sometimes baked goods in the spiced genre can taste a bit like a candle shop, or a stale corner of the pantry.

Molasses Cookies

The Silver Palate’s molasses cookie is one that’s spiced and sweetened delicately so it doesn’t feel out of place outside of December.

Pumpkin Pie

When Judy Hesser (mom of Amanda) told me that her favorite pumpkin pie recipe, from Meta Given’s Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking,

Marie-Hélène’s Apple Cake

Cookbook author Dorie Greenspan built this recipe—an apple cake that’s more apples than cake—from the memory of one served by her friend Marie-Hélène, the frustrating sort of excellent cook who doesn’t measure or slow down enough to record her own recipes.

Dense Chocolate Loaf Cake

This is a good cake to keep lying around—for roaming family members who need to be kept happy between mealtimes, for neighbors who swoop in unannounced, for you.

Purple Plum Torte

Marian Burros published this torte recipe in the New York Times in 1982, bringing it back by request every September until 1989, rarely varying a thing.

Chocolate Mousse

Every chocolate book and pastry chef teaches us to never let water get near melting chocolate: It will seize and crumble, and ruin dessert.

Sweet Corn & Black Raspberry Ice Cream

An eggy custard base has a nasty habit of muting other flavors in ice cream.

New Classic Coconut MacaroonsNew Classic Coconut Macaroons

What seems in part to define macaroons is what they usually lack: flour (which makes them perfect for Passover observers and gluten avoiders).

Fresh Blueberry Pie

A blueberry is just a sack of tart-sweet juice, barely contained by a thin, taut orb of skin. It’s nature’s tiniest water balloon,

Strawberry Shortcakes

As James Beard learned from his mother, the key to a better, more tender shortcake is egg yolks. This doesn’t sound so strange, until you learn the yolks are from hard-boiled eggs.

Strawberry Lemon Sorbet

We’re taught to zest our lemons carefully, to shear off just the thin yellow top coat that holds the citrusy perfume—as if some of the bitter, spongy white pith might sneak in and ruin everything. (And sometimes it does.)

Potato Dominoes

This technique from Argentine grilling master Francis Mallmann takes a very plain ingredient and glitzes it up, making starchy russet potatoes act like creamy Yukon Golds.

Gratin of Zucchini, Rice & Onions with Cheese

While this gratin gives off the airs of a rich dish, it has no cream or butter and its luxurious base is largely vegetable water.

Fried Asparagus with Miso Dressing

Next time you start taking asparagus for granted, make like Nobu Matsuhisa and fry it.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Fish Sauce Vinaigrette

Even if we’ve started to recover from mushy brussels sprout flashbacks, we can still take them further than roasting them plain—by shoving them into a puddle of fish sauce vinaigrette, for example.

Balsamic Glazed Beets & Greens

I’m afraid we don’t understand beets as well as we could. We don’t get to interact with them when they’re roasting in a packet of foil or boiling for an hour in a pot of dark red water.

Garlic Green Beans

In their natural state, green beans can be severe and squeaky. Our goal is to break through that, but we’re going about it all wrong.

Broccoli Cooked Forever

Broccoli overcooked carelessly tastes stale and murky. But when you push beyond that disappointing just-too-done state (and throw in a whole lot of olive oil bubbling lazily with garlic, anchovy, and hot peppers), you find yourself with a miraculous substance.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Whipped Goat Cheese

Cauliflower takes well to roasting: All those starchy crevices get nutty and sweet and come into their own—catching oils, crisping, browning, basking.

Black Pepper Tofu

Tofu’s proponents have tried to get us to see all the ways to improve its texture—freezing or pressing or boiling to rid it of spare water, broiling or roasting to crisp it up.

Green Lentil Salad

At a glance, nothing seems special about this recipe. You’ve probably simmered lentils with aromatics before, and even tossed them in vinaigrette.

Ship’s Biscuit

You might not think there’d be ways to improve upon the egg sandwich—fry an egg, melt some cheese on toast, maybe get a
little bacon involved.

Kale Panini

When we think of a sandwich ransacked from the fridge, it’s usually eggs, or grilled cheese, or something salumi-based. But with only a little more effort you can get something more restorative out of a desperate kitchen sweep.

Pasta with Let-My-Eggplant-Go-Free! Puree

Eggplant can be a mystery. Will it brown handsomely or stick to the pan? Will its flesh relax, or stay stiff and chewy? Will it be sweet,

Spiced Braised Lentils & Tomatoes with Toasted Coconut

The next time you’re looking at the sack of lentils in your pantry, don’t just start boiling them while you figure out the more compelling parts of the meal.

Ginger Fried Rice

Fried rice is meant to be a hallmark of kitchen efficiency, yet most recipes and tutorials call for day-old rice (the grains are drier and firmer than freshly cooked rice and will absorb flavor without clumping and sogging).

Grilled Pizza

To the frustration of home cooks with ambitions of restaurant-caliber pizza, the oven dial maxes out around 500°F (260°C)—not nearly enough to get the best, blistered crust.

Tomato Sauce with Butter & Onion

“Simple doesn’t mean easy,” Marcella Hazan wrote in 2004, a quote widely cited to explain her cooking style and influence.

Polenta Facile

ADAPTED FROM CARLO MIDDIONE
The polenta you can abandon is also the creamiest polenta—even when you add nothing but water.

Mushroom Bourguignon

This version of boeuf bourguignon will do everything a bourguignon needs to do and will do it in time for dinner tonight. There is no beef in it.

Pasta with Yogurt & Caramelized Onions

When cookbook author Diane Kochilas began dressing pasta with yogurt, her intention was to adapt a classic Greek island dish that required an obscure cheese called sitaka.

Cauliflower Steaks

If you carve two thick planks from a cauliflower’s middle, the cross-sections hold together much better than you’d think—well enough that you can fry them up like a steak.

Perfect Pan-Seared Steaks

 You can cook a better (and more forgiving) steak—but you’ll have to toss out all the rules you’ve learned. Lucky for us, J.

Salt-Crusted Beef Tenderloin Grilled in Cloth (Lomo al Trapo)

This recipe from Steven Raichlen, the author of The Barbecue! Bible, has more in common with a crafting project than cooking and will make your dinner guests think you’ve finally gone too far, until they taste it.

Meatballs

Spaghetti and meatballs doesn’t have to be a meal that you simmer all day, nor does it need to put you into hibernation once you’ve eaten it.

Brisket of Beef

 By some accounts, this is the most googled of all brisket recipes. There are unverified reports that it was even served in the White House for the Obamas’ first Passover Seder—and for good reason.

Grilled Pork Burgers

Chef Suzanne Goin’s perfect burger theory first looks inside the patty itself, instead of just stacking more layers on top. A burger isn’t so different from a meatball or crab cake.

Monday, July 23, 2018

Carnitas

Most traditional carnitas recipes call for simmering pork in lard (in Michoacán, this is done in a big copper pot), but I’ve also seen recipes calling for dry brining, broiling on a rack after an oven braise, deglazing with brandy, simmering in milk, even rigging up a turkey fryer. Without a doubt, all of these methods yield delicious results—there aren’t many situations where fatty pork will let you down.

Onion Carbonara


Bacon (or guanciale), cheese, and egg make such a fine, creamy sauce together, we should be applying them to more than just pasta.

Dry-Brined Turkey (a.k.a. The Judy Bird)

Chicken Thighs with Lemon

“Short of turning chicken on a spit over live wood embers, I know of no better process for cooking chicken, nor one that delivers more satisfying or true flavors,” Paul Bertolli wrote of this technique, which he calls “bottom-up cooking,” in Cooking by Hand.

Simplest Roast Chicken

The juiciest, speediest, most bewitchingly golden roast chicken also happens to be the one with the recipe you can remember without googling. Just 10 minutes a pound at