The next time you’re looking at the sack of
lentils in your pantry, don’t just start boiling them while you figure out the
more compelling parts of the meal.
If you braise them instead, as New York Times columnist and cookbook author Melissa Clark does, you won’t need to serve anything else. Toast the lentils first in a mélange of seasonings, as you would rice for risotto. Then cook them in a modest amount of flavorful sauce, so that they have no choice but to plump up with the aggressive flavors all around them. And while that goes on in the corner, round up some very important garnishes. Yogurt, cilantro, and salted butter are naturals, but the toasted coconut and mustard seeds will surprise you. You probably never thought to put this many mustard seeds on top of anything, and you’ll want to start doing it more.
If you braise them instead, as New York Times columnist and cookbook author Melissa Clark does, you won’t need to serve anything else. Toast the lentils first in a mélange of seasonings, as you would rice for risotto. Then cook them in a modest amount of flavorful sauce, so that they have no choice but to plump up with the aggressive flavors all around them. And while that goes on in the corner, round up some very important garnishes. Yogurt, cilantro, and salted butter are naturals, but the toasted coconut and mustard seeds will surprise you. You probably never thought to put this many mustard seeds on top of anything, and you’ll want to start doing it more.
Most of this happens in one pot, with little more
effort than boiling the lentils plain. And the result is so satisfying (so
unlike a side of lentils) that you don’t have to come up with a chicken to put
on top.
Serves 4 to 6
3 tablespoons unsalted
butter
1 bunch scallions, white and
light green parts, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely
chopped
1 tablespoon good-quality Madras
curry powder
1 tablespoon tomato
paste
2 cups (385g) green or brown
lentils
12 ounces (340g) ripe, juicy
tomatoes, chopped (2 medium), or 2 cups canned plum tomatoes, drained (400g) or
a 15-ounce (425g) can of diced tomatoes
1¾ teaspoons kosher salt, plus
additional to taste
1 cup (85g) dried, unsweetened
coconut flakes
1½ tablespoons black or brown
mustard seeds
Salty butter, for
serving
Plain whole milk yogurt, for
serving (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro, for
serving
1 Melt the unsalted butter in a large saucepan over
medium-high heat. Add the scallions, garlic, and curry powder. Cook until the
mixture is golden and soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and
lentils and cook until slightly caramelized, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes
and 1¾ teaspoons salt. Add enough water to cover the mixture by ½ inch (1.3cm).
Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to medium-low and
simmer until the lentils are tender, 25 to 40 minutes. If the lentils begin to
look dry while cooking, add more water as needed.
2 In a small, dry skillet over medium heat, toast the
coconut flakes, mustard seeds, and a large pinch of salt until the coconut is
golden, about 3 minutes.
3 To serve, spoon the lentils into individual bowls.
Drop about 2 teaspoons salted butter into each dish. Top with yogurt, cilantro,
and the coconut mixture. Serve immediately.
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