Monday, July 23, 2018

Cauliflower Soup

This recipe will tell you to put a cauliflower and an onion in a pot, add water, then add water
 … then add some more water. You probably want to put down the cookbook and wander away looking for a cheeseburger, right? It sounds downright grim, but Paul Bertolli, who was at the helm of Chez Panisse and Oliveto for more than twenty years, knows exactly how to make a vegetable become the best it can be. His formula for cauliflower soup is precise to the ounce and simple to follow, even with a raised eyebrow. (Seriously, more water?) With a little boiling and swirling in a blender, the cauliflower puts up no resistance—the vegetable’s natural pectin is enough to make it creamy, without any added dairy.
It’s tempting to add crème fraîche or bacon, vadouvan, or a thick lump of butter—trust me, all of them would be delicious—but I encourage you to not add a thing. When you curb your instincts to overseason and overfatten, yes, sometimes you end up with gruel—but sometimes you get a supple, magical puree that’s delicate and sweet and smooth as a flannel scarf. Even if you’re not a fan of cauliflower (Bertolli isn’t), make an exception for this soup.
Serves 8
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion (6 ounces/170g), sliced thin
1 pound 6 ounces (625g) very fresh cauliflower, broken into florets
Salt
5½ cups (1.3L) hot water
Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Warm the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Sweat the onion in the olive oil over low heat without letting it brown for 15 minutes.
2 Add the cauliflower, salt to taste, and ½ cup (120ml) of the water. Raise the heat slightly, and cover the pot tightly. Stew the cauliflower for 15 to 18 minutes, or until tender. Then add another 4½ cups (1L) of hot water, bring to a low simmer, and cook an additional 20 minutes.
3 Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender to a very smooth, creamy consistency. Let the soup stand for 20 minutes. In this time it will thicken slightly.
4 Thin the soup with the remaining ½ cup (120ml) hot water. Reheat the soup. Serve hot, drizzled with a thin stream of extra-virgin olive oil and freshly ground black pepper.
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