When you see that you have to boil oranges for 2
hours to make this recipe from Middle Eastern cookbook author Claudia Roden, you
may be tempted to thumb to another cake, but I implore you to stay put.
When you boil oranges for that long, their
bitterness slips into the water, so you can take advantage of the whole orange,
thick spongy pith and all. The cooking is entirely hands-off once the oranges
and water are in the pot, and makes your house smell like a holiday market.
After 2 hours, taste some softened pith—it’s creamy and citrusy and, for once,
edible. (I tasted the water for you; it took up all that bitterness.)
Serves 6 to 10
2 large oranges
6 large eggs
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (225g)
ground almonds
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (225g)
sugar
1 teaspoon baking
powder
Butter or oil, for the
pan
Flour or more ground almonds, for
the pan
1 Wash and boil the oranges (unpeeled) in a little
water for nearly 2 hours (or for 30 minutes in a pressure cooker). Let them
cool, then cut them open and remove the seeds. Turn the oranges into pulp by
rubbing them through a sieve or by putting them in an electric blender or food
processor.
2 Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Butter and flour a
cake pan with a removable base, if possible. (I used a 9 by 3-inch/23 by 7.5cm
round cake pan, and you can use oil and almond flour if you’re going for
dairy-free and gluten-free.)
3 Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Add the ground
almonds, sugar, baking powder, and orange puree and mix thoroughly. Pour into
the prepared cake pan and bake for about 1 hour, then have a look at it—this
type of cake will not go any flatter if the oven door is opened. If it is still
very wet, leave it in the oven for a little longer. Cool in the pan before
turning out.
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