Once we realize that salad doesn’t have to mean
lettuce, our options open up. This one, from Moro restaurant in London, starts
with warm roasted squash tossed with chickpeas (best cooked from
scratch, but a can will do). It’s hefty enough to be the only thing on the
table, light enough not to make you groggy, and lively enough to make winter
squash a lot more compelling. It also happens to be vegan, but even a person who
expects meat at every meal will be content with a bowl of this.
Vinaigrette might disappear into the squash and
slide off the chickpeas. This is where tahini comes in: It’s a vegan means of
adding smoke, protein, creaminess, and substance (also an impressive carrier of
garlic, lemon, and salt). With just the squash, chickpeas, and tahini, you might
think your bowl will look like a burnt sienna paint strip—a good fistful of
green cilantro leaves and some purple onion bits will take care of
that.
Serves 4
2 pounds (900g) winter squash,
peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch (2.5cm) cubes
1 clove garlic,
crushed
½ teaspoon ground
allspice
2 tablespoons olive
oil
Sea salt and black
pepper
1½ cups (250g) home-cooked
chickpeas or one (425g) can cooked chickpeas, drained
½ small red onion, finely
chopped
¼ cup (5g) roughly chopped fresh
cilantro
TAHINI SAUCE
1 clove garlic, crushed to a
paste with a pinch of salt
3½ tablespoons fresh lemon
juice
3 tablespoons tahini
paste
2 tablespoons water, plus more if
needed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil, plus more to taste
1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking
sheet with parchment paper.
2 Toss the squash with the garlic, allspice, olive oil,
and some salt and pepper. Place on the baking sheet and roast for 20 to 25
minutes, or until soft. Allow to cool slightly.
3 Meanwhile, make the tahini
sauce. Mix the crushed garlic with the lemon juice and add the tahini
paste. Now thin with the water and olive oil, and check for seasoning. You
should taste a balance between the nutty tahini and lemon.
4 To assemble the salad, place the squash, chickpeas,
red onion, and cilantro in a mixing bowl. Pour on the tahini sauce and toss
carefully. Season with salt and pepper and add more oil to taste. Serve
immediately
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