This recipe from Steven Raichlen, the author of
The Barbecue! Bible, has more in common with a
crafting project than cooking and will make your dinner guests think you’ve
finally gone too far, until they taste it.
Its name translates to “beef tenderloin in cloth” and it goes like this: Cake a big, hunky piece of filet mignon in salt sprinkled with dried oregano, tie it in an old rag, and throw it in flaming coals. Nineteen minutes later you will have dinner.
Its name translates to “beef tenderloin in cloth” and it goes like this: Cake a big, hunky piece of filet mignon in salt sprinkled with dried oregano, tie it in an old rag, and throw it in flaming coals. Nineteen minutes later you will have dinner.
There isn’t much to the tenderloin, as muscles
go—it’s tender as promised, but lacking the flavor and intrigue of other cuts of
beef. We normally serve it in a pool of sauce to make up for that, but here you
don’t need to—a salt crust and a little temerity liven it up in so many
ways.
Naturally, the salt seasons the meat—but not too
much. The crust is packed on at the last minute and most of it is brushed away.
The thick layer of salt also seals off the surface, allowing the beef to
simultaneously roast and steam in its own juices (plus salt and oregano juices).
The crust also diffuses the direct heat of the coals, while creating a miniature
kiln. In doing so, it gives the beef a texture almost like a sous vide filet.
Instead of a bulls-eye leading from a rare center to a charred crust, you get an
extended radius of medium-rare, tender all the way to the edge.
This may seem like quite a lot to commit to. Beef
tenderloin isn’t cheap. A practice run could set you back a good $25 and one
dish towel. As much as you want to be a badass pit master, you’re probably
worried that you will bust open the salt only to find a well-done lump. Good
news: You have insurance. You can push an instant-read thermometer through the
salt crust to be certain.
Serves 2
2 cups (280g) kosher salt (we
used Diamond Crystal brand)
1 tablespoon dried
oregano
One 12- to 16-ounce (340 to 450g)
center-cut beef tenderloin, about 6 inches (15cm) long, meticulously trimmed of
all fat and silver skin
Special equipment: 1 piece of
clean cotton cloth, approximately 16 inches square (40 by 40cm), dipped in cold
water and wrung out slightly; butcher’s string
1 Arrange the cotton cloth on a work surface on the
diagonal (like a diamond), so that one corner points down toward you. Spread the
salt on top of the cloth to form a layer ¼ inch (6mm) thick and extending to
within 1 inch (2.5cm) of the edge of the cloth. Sprinkle the oregano evenly over
the salt.
2 Arrange the beef tenderloin crosswise on top of the
salt about 4 inches (10cm) up from the point of the cloth closest to you; the
tenderloin should be parallel to your shoulders. Starting at the corner closest
to you, roll the tenderloin up in the cloth and salt. The idea is to make a
compact roll. Now take the points of cloth at each end of the resulting cylinder
and tie them together on top of the tenderloin. Tuck in any loose ends. The goal
is to form a tight cylinder. (If necessary, tie the center of the cylinder with
butcher’s string to secure it.) You should roll up the tenderloin just prior to
grilling.
3 If you are using a charcoal
grill, light the coals in a chimney starter. When the coals are evenly
covered with white ash, rake them out in an even layer at the bottom of the
grill. You will not need a grill grate. Place the wrapped tenderloin right on
the coals, knotted side up, and grill it for about 9 minutes. Using long-handled
tongs, gently turn the tenderloin package over and grill it, uncovered, for
about 8 minutes longer. Do not be alarmed if the cloth burns; it’s meant to. In fact, the whole package should look about as
appetizing as a fire-charred log.
If you are using a gas
grill, preheat it as hot as it will go. There is no need to oil the grill
grate. Place the wrapped tenderloin on the hot grate, knotted side up, and grill
it for about 9 minutes. Using long-handled tongs, gently turn the tenderloin
package over and grill it for about 8 minutes longer. You may need a little more
cooking time and the crust won’t burn as black as when charcoal grilled, but the
tenderloin will still turn out pretty tasty.
4 Use an instant-read thermometer to test the
tenderloin for doneness, inserting it through the cloth and the salt into the
center of the meat. When cooked to rare, the internal temperature will be about
125°F (52°C); to medium-rare, 140°F to 145°F (60°C to 63°C).
5 Transfer the charred tenderloin to a metal platter or
rimmed sheet pan and let it rest for 2 minutes. Lift the tenderloin with tongs
and tap it hard with the back of a large, heavy chef’s knife (you may need to
tap it several times). The burnt shell should crack and come off. Using a pastry
brush, brush any excess salt off the tenderloin. Transfer the tenderloin to a
clean platter, cut it into two to four pieces and serve at once.
0 التعليقات: